Preparing and Building Raised Beds

Fall is a great time of year to work in the garden.  Preparing existing raised beds and building and preparing new beds now means you will be ready for a early spring planting.  Why start now?  Being prepared spreads the cost out, spreads the work load out over seasons, and your soil will be prepared and ready to plant when the time is right.  You will be ready to produce food for your family from early spring til fall.  I'm including two chore lists.  One for the beginning gardener and one for the gardener already using raised beds.

There are basically 3 things you want to accomplish in the fall whether you are a first time or experienced gardener. 

For the first time gardener:

First:  Choose your garden site
Second:  Build your raised bed boxes, fences, and install a water source
Third:  Prepare your soil

For an existing garden:

First:  Clean out your existing garden beds
Second:  Build any additional raised bed boxes
Third:  Prepare your soil

Herbs are great to incorporate into the garden to attract pollinators and beneficial insects.

#1 The Garden Site

For the First Time Gardener 

 Choosing your garden site

• Gardens do best when they get 6-8 hours of sunlight.  Late afternoon shade is fine.  
• Consider a site with protection from the wind
• You need easy access to water in the garden
• Choose a site close to your house with easy access.  Nobody likes to hike to the garden.
• Avoid micro climates... planting in a hole where cold air sinks or where too much reflective sunlight exists from a fence, windows, or nearby structures
• Avoid any area with heavy clay or poor water drainage which is a sign of clay.  If water pools and drains slowly after a rain avoid these areas
• If deer or rabbits are a problem in your area consider a fence
• Pick a place where you can visually see your garden from the house and will be able to enjoy it
• Since you just might love gardening, choose an area that can be expanded

For an existing garden:

Clean out your existing garden:

• Fall clean up is very important.  Pests and disease overwinter in debris
• Remove all spent plants and debris.  It's very important to get diseased plants out of the garden and in the garbage not the compost pile
• Add 1 - 2 inches of compost to to top of your bed.  Bare soil is not beneficial to the health of your soil.  Cover crops planted late summer that will winter kill are another option.
• Late in the fall, a layer of compost is your best option
• Use healthy plant material like dried corn stalks or fall leaves to start a compost pile.  Mix equal part brown and green material.  Wet it until it feels like a damp sponge.  Turn the pile every couple of weeks to keep it decomposing aerobically.  Make your pile 4x4x4 feet so it heats up sufficiently.
• Drain water from existing water systems
• Organize all your garden supplies and put up trellises and cages

#2 The Raised Bed

 Building a raised bed box

• 4'x8'  or 3'x 8' or 10' is a good size for a raised bed.  The boxes can be any length but the width should be no wider than 4 feet. If you have back issues 3' wide is a more comfortable reach You need to be able to access the box from the sides without stepping into the box.  We don't want to compact our soil.
• I like to use 10" or 12" high boxes.  You can build the boxes taller but you need to be able to fill the box with good soil and it will require more soil amendments.  Taller boxes are easier on the back.
• To build one bed that is 4'x8', buy three 2x12x8's.  Two boards make up the sides and one board cut in half will provide the two ends
• Use screws to join the sides together
• Build the box away from the garden so you can prepare the site for the box
• There are fancy raised bed plans online.  When your garden is mature, your plants will be the focus not the box.  I think if you have limited funds use whatever lumber you have available and put your money into building your soil.

 Preparing to Install the Raised Bed

• Be sure to think about the layout of your garden.  You will be so excited about the success of your garden box next year you will want to add more.
• Be sure to allow wide enough paths between the boxes to get a wheel barrow around but not so wide you spend more time weeding paths than the garden
• I like to line garden paths with a high quality weed block and cover with bark so my time is NOT spent weeding paths.
• Rototill the ground where you are going to put the box
• If you have a broad fork which has 18 inch tines you can use that instead of a rototiller to loose the soil up.  It actually gets down deeper and doesn't not destroy soil structure.
• If you have nothing else, a shovel also works to turn the ground over and loosen the soil.  Compacted soil is an enemy to good, healthy gardens
• Remember do NOT put your garden in an area of heavy clay
• Remove all rocks.  
• Level the ground and place your box on top
• Do not put a cover on the bottom.  Trust me you'll regret it.  It inhibits root growth.  It's better to have a gopher hole you can put a trap in than a hole down under the box that you can't get to.
• You can paint the box with a boiled linseed oil.  I have never done that.  I  just replace old beds.

Raised Bed Rule:  When you are done, do NOT walk on your beds!

Chinese Cabbage from an early spring planting

 

#3  Preparing your soil

Building healthy soil is what makes organic gardening successful!

The study of soil is fascinating.  When you hold a handful of healthy soil, you are holding a microscopic world teeming with life.  Healthy soil is composed of air water, minerals, organic matter, and microbes.  All of these elements are essential to fertile, healthy soil.  Isn't that fascinating?

Components of Soil

Air

• Creates pore space
• Roots require oxygen

Water

• Needed to transport nutrients
• Transpiration

Minerals

• Gives soil its texture 
• Does not determine soil fertility

Microbes and Soil Life

•  Decomposers
• Holds nutrients in the soil
• Makes nutrients available to plants
• Builds soil structure
• Indispensable to the organic gardener

Organic Matter

• Builds soil structure
• Increases water holding capacity
• Adds nutrients
• Increases microbe activity

We are now going to turn ordinary dirt into extraordinary garden soil! 

 

#3 Preparing the Soil

Evaluate the texture of your soil.  Is it mostly sand, silt, or clay?  Sandy loam is the ideal garden soil.

If you have more than 40% clay or sand it will behave like clay or sand.  Huge amounts of amendments would be required to change the texture.

If the soil is adequate, then fill the box about 1/2 full

If your soil has too much clay I STRONGLY suggest you find and bring in a better soil.  You will not have very good results and gardening will be a huge frustration in clay.

Add 2 bags of finished compost.  I like Nutri-mulch which is composted turkey manure and bedding. 

Do not add any dried fertilizer at this time. 

Add a bag of peat moss

Be careful with bulk manures and composts.  Sometimes they are very high in salts.

Incorporate the compost and peat moss into the box with a shovel.  Level it. Water the bed.

Congratulations! You are now prepared for spring with a box all ready to plant in.

Planting Spring Bulbs

Nothing gives the promise of spring more than tulips, daffodils, other spring blooming bulbs.  Fall is the time to plant if you want to enjoy these early spring treats. Many gardeners tend to use the term "bulb" rather liberally referring to any plant with an underground storage structure.  True bulbs are modified leaves attached to a basal plate that surrounds the following years buds.  The roots grow down from the basal plate.  Some bulbs like tulips and narcissi (daffodils) have a papery tunic surround the bulb.  Others bulbs like lilies and fritillaries have scales covering the bulbs.

Using Bulbs in the Landscape

Bulbs are one of the first flowers of spring.  This makes them very adaptable in the landscape.  They can be planted in full sun or under a deciduous tree.  The bulbs will bloom before the tree leafs out.  Any soil is acceptable; however, adding a compost and organic fertilize at planting time makes for happier healthierbulbs.  They can also be planted in containers.  This is a great option if you love tulips and have deer that love them too.  Containers of tulips on a porch may not be bothered by deer unless they are overly friendly. 

Bulbs are at their best planted in groups rather than scattered or planted in rows.  Medium sized bulbs like tulips, narcissi, or hyacinths look nice planted in groups of 7-10. Small bulbs such as crocuses, or Siberian squalls can be planted in groups of 12 or more.  Leave spaces between clusters of bulbs to interplant ground covers, annuals, or perennials.  By early summer bulbs leaves will fade and the spotlight will be on other flowers.

Stacked Planting of Bulbs

This technique will give you succession of blooming bulbs.  Plant tall growing bulbs such as late tulips.  Add a layer of soil mixed with compost and plant a midseason hyacinth.  Add another layer and plant an early blooming small bulb such as crocuses.

Types of Bulbs

Bulbs are classified according to their blooming season.  There are late winter flowering, spring flowering, summer flowering, and fall flowering bulbs.  Then within each season group (ei. spring flowering) there are early, midseason, and late bloomers.  Bulbs are also classified as hardy, semi-hardy, and tender bulbs.  This post will focus on hardy bulbs which include:  cyclamen, fritillary, grape hyacinth, snowflake, striped squill, tulips, crocus, and narcissi.

Late Winter Flowering Bulbs:  snowdrops, Iris reticulate

Early Spring Bulbs:  crocus, Siberian squill

Midseason Spring Bulbs:  tulips, narcissi

Naturalizing Bulbs

Naturalized plantings are one of the benefits of bulbs.  Choose bulbs that are hardy and appropriate for your soil.  Planting methods can be as simple as tossing the bulbs in the air and planting them were they land or lay out a garden hose in a meandering path and then plant in that path.

Propagating Bulbs

Bulbs multiple on their own without your intervening.  You can dig up a bulb and find numerous bulbs of various sizes.  The larger ones can be replanted and will bloom the following the year.  The smaller bulbs will need to be grown out until they reach flowering size.

Planting Bulbs

When you receive your bulbs in early fall for hardy bulbs and early spring for tender bulbs.  Prepare a planting hole a few inches deeper than the recommended planting depth.  Add compost and a dry organic fertilizer to the soil you removed.  Add enough soil to bring to the appropriate planting depth and plant the bulb.  Space the bulbs a few inches apart.  Water well.

Planting Depths

Narcissa 10 Inches

Tulips 8 inches

Crocus 4 inches

Allium 6 inches

Hyacinth 6 inches

Maintaining Bulbs

Hardy bulbs require little care.  Water throughout fall until the ground freezes.  In the spring you can fertilize as the bulbs begin to bloom. I use fish emulsion. The flowers will begin to fade.  If they develop any seed pods cut them off.  It is best to leave the foliage as long as it is green.  It provides energy to the bulb and roots. When the leaves turn yellow they can be cut back. 

Since you intend for your bulbs to be a permanent planting, little care is needed during the summer months when the bulbs are actually dormant.  The hardest thing for me in the summer is to not accidentally dig them up when planting annuals .

Notice the pollen covered bee in this tulip.

Lifting Over Crowed Bulbs

As bulbs become overcrowded flowering will diminish.  This is the time to lift the bulbs.  Do this as the leaves begin to fade in early summer.  Let the bulbs dry for a few days.  Then remove the faded leaves.  The bulbs can be stored in a warm dry place until fall planting time.

Winter Issues

Bulbs are planted deep enough that they have no problem with winter cold.  If you live in an area with freezing and then thawing you may have problems with newly planted bulbs heaving.  If this is the case an extra layer of mulch will help.

Organic Lawn Care

Probably the most commercialized aspect of gardening is lawn care.  I believe its based more on profits than plant biology. Look at the number of commercials and amount of advertising devote to having a green lawn. Maintaining a lawn organically is easier and less expensive.  An organic lawn also allows you to use your clippings in your compost pile and as a mulch around fruit trees. It is perfectly safe at all times for kids, grandkids, pets, and yourself to play on, lay on, and enjoy.

Here's my routine:

Early Spring (when forsythia blooms)  apply an organic fertilizer which usually is composed of various meals with bone meal being the most abundant.  Look for one that has corn gluten which is a pre-emergent weed control.  (Prevents weeds from sprouting)  I have used Gardens Alive Wow Supreme or Espoma products. 

If you lawn has an extreme weed problem apply again one month later. 

To get rid of existing weeds use any organic herbicide that has d-limenol and/or clove.  These are essential oils.  The d-limenol is a citrus oil.  They burn what ever plant it is sprayed on including morning glory so only spot spray your dandelions and weeds.  Spray any weed that pops up.  Be diligent in early spring.  By summer very few weeds appear, and you are just enjoying your lawn. Burn Out is an example of an organic herbicide.

Early fall, September, I fertilize again with a dry organic lawn fertilizer.  I use WOW supreme but you can use one without a pre-emergent weed control.

You can reseed bare areas and add compost if needed.  Fish emulsion will always help spots that are struggling.

I have never aerated my lawn.  You only need to aerate if thatch is a problem.

 Keep the lawn mowed regularly.

 Watering depends on your soil type and the type of lawn you have as well as your watering system.  There are also conditions created by your house and the sun that may effect how often and long you water.  I have west facing second story windows that reflect sunlight and almost burn the grass. The type of sprinklers and their output will also effect watering. I have Kentucky Bluegrass and a sandy loam soil.  In spring I water as needed.  In summer the sprinklers come on more frequently. You can always cut back the water, and if you lawn complains increase the time.

Be sure to choose the right type of lawn for your purposes and concerns.  We have a green zone all around our house because we have frequent wildfires and this acts as a buffer zone.  Different varieties feel different, grow different, have different water requirements, different hardiness and green up at different times and rates.  So do some research so you are happy with your choice.

Confession! I have always followed the routine I shared with you.  There is no need for an expensive 4 step program each spring and fall.  The lawn has been the pride and joy of my two youngest sons, Blake and Tyler, that have faithful cared for it for while growing up.  They are both in college but when they come home they make sure Dad has kept the lawn looking great!

Tips on Growing Onions

Onions are an ancient crop.  They have both medicinal and culinary uses.  For the cook they are essential.  Dried, raw, or cooked they are versatile and indispensable in so many dishes.  They are easy to grow and a great storage crop.


The formation of the onion bulb is dependent on day length.  When browsing the catalogs you when notice that onion varieties are classified according to the photoperiod or day length required for that particular variety to bulb up.  They grow vegetatively or develop top green growth until the required number of daylight hours is reached and then the bulb begins to swell and grow.

Short Day Varieties require 10-12 hours of daylight and do well in Southern regions.  They can be grown in the North but do not get very large.

Long Day Varieties require 14-16 hours of daylight and do well in Northern regions

Day Neutral of Intermediate Varieties start bulking with 12-14 daylight hours.  These can be grown with success anywhere.

If you are north of the Oklahoma/Kansas border or 36 degrees latitude plant long day or day nuetral varieties. If south of that plant short day or day neutral varieties.

Onions interplanted with Merlot lettuce.

Cultivation

Onions require a sandy loam soil amended with plenty of organic matter and a dry organic fertilizer incorporated shallowly into the soil before planting.  They have shallow roots and need to have plenty of water to do well near field capacity. Even moisture is the key. the bulb is not part of the roots but a swollen stem. The roots extend from the base of the bulb and are very shallow. Onion seed has low germination rates and should be replaced every two years.

Onions interplanted with cauliflower.

Planting Options

You have different options when it comes to growing onions.  They can be started from seed, planted as sets, or transplant plants.  All of which can be purchased from the nursery or garden catalogs.

I have the best result using seed. You need a good 5 months to grow from seed.   I start them indoors from Feb 1st - mid February and plant them out in April.  I direct seed green onion or scallions in April.  The seedlings can be transplanted in the garden 4-6 weeks before the last frost when they are about 2-3 inches tall.  They like cool weather for top growth and warm weather to  produce  the bulb.

Onion sets are immature bulbs grown the previous season.  They are usually labeled only by color:  red, yellow, or white.  Bulbs that are the size of a dime produce the best bulbs.  Anything larger may go to seed before producing decent sized bulbs.  Bulbs smaller than a dime can be used are green onions or scallions.

Onion transplants.  Those the size of a pencil do the best.  Smaller ones can be used are green onions.

You can also purchase onion transplants.  They are seedlings grown the previous year.  They are dormant when you receive them and will look dry.  Soak the roots in a little water and plant about 1 inch deep.  This will cover the roots and not bury the neck too deeply.  This is a good option if you do not want to grow your own transplants.

You can fertilize with fish emulsion but once they start to bulb up do not fertilize.  Top growth will stop when the plant focuses its energy on developing a bulb.

Plant  in rows or use the square foot method.  Scallions can be 2" apart or 16/square foot.  Larger onions need to be about 3-4 inches apart or 9/square foot.  Be sure to mulch around onions it helps to hold moisture in the soil.

Ok so I don't take many pictures of the under appreciated onion, but they are one crop I use the most in cooking and canning. They probably deserve more attention when I have the camera out. 

Types of Onions

Scallions or Green Onions:  
Most onions can be pulled when young and used as green onions.  There are specific bunching onions grown specifically for green onions.  There are both green and purple varieties.  Pickling onions are also available.



Sweet Onions 

Sweet onions are not astringent or as sharp as other onions.  They are sweet and frequently used raw.  They do not store well. Walls Walla and Vivaldi are wonderful sweet onions. Sweet onions do not store well.  Plan on using them first.

Multiplier Onion or Potato Onions:
These are similar in growing patterns to garlic.  They are planted in the fall with the tip of the onion even with the soil level.  They send up leaves the following spring.  Remove any seed heads that develop.  They produce a cluster of bulbs from the one bulb that you plant.  Harvest in July or August just like garlic and cure.  Save some bulbs for next years planting.

Walking Onions or Egyptian Onions

These are fun to grow.  They form small bulbs underground and a cluster of bulbets on the seed head instead of a flower.  You can harvest and cook the underground bulbs and replant the bulbets on the top of the stalk.  If you leave them unharvested the top of the plant tips over or "walks" on the ground and reroots itself.

Shallots

Shallots are a small, mild allium prized by chefs.  The are elongated with reddish skins.  When peeled they separate into cloves like garlic.

Onions citing under a porch.

Storage Onions

This is the onion most are familiar with. There are red, yellow, and white storage onions. Each varies in its storage length but generally if stored properly they can last from 3-6 months.

Yellow onions are consider to be an all purpose onion.  They are used most often in cooking with a good balance of flavor.  They become sweeter the longer they cook.  Spanish onions are a sweet yellow onion.

White Onions are more pungent.  They are more tender and have a thinner pappery skin.  They are used just like yellow onions.



Red Onions are similar to yellow but milder.  They are used raw in salads and salsas.  When cooked the color fades.  If they seem too strong raw, then soak slices in water ahead of time.

Onions interplanted with broccoli and celery.

Harvesting

You can harvest an onion at any stage.  If you want large bulbs then wait for the tops to turn yellow.  Bend the tops over with a rake and leave for a week.  This will direct more energy to maturing the bulb.  When leaves turn brown pull the onions.  Do not wash the onion just brush off the dirt.  Cure them in the shade with good air circulation for 7-10 days.  This allows the papery skin to dry and provide protection during storage.  When they are done curing brush off the loose soil, clip the tops down to 1 inch and trim the roots.  Those with thin necks will store the longest so use the thicker necked onions first.

Storage

Most onions store for 3-6 month at 32-45 degrees with 65-70% humidity.  If you don't have a root cellar a vegetable bin  in the refrigerator will work.  They will not last as long at room temperature. Check your storage onions frequently and remove those that sprout or are rotting.

Onions are a good companion crop with lettuce, cole crops and carrots.

Diseases and Pests

Onions are generally disease and pest free.  They are considered pest deterrents when planted among lettuce, cole crops, and carrots.

Thrips can be a problem.  They  are visible with a hand lens. They have elongated bodies and large dark eyes.  They cause silvery lesions on the leaves.  They suck plant juices and can cause deformed bulbs.  Neem or pyrethrin is effective on thrips.

Leeks have similar cultivation requirements.