Getting Rid of Earwigs in the Garden

Absolutely one of the creepiest pests that can invade your gardens or orchards are earwigs.  Earwigs are omnivores with a diverse diet including insects such as aphids or caterpillars, organic matter, fruits, blossoms, vegetable leaves and fruit.  In some instances earwigs are actually considered beneficial; however they can congregate and feed in large numbers causing extensive damage.  The very creepy claspers or pinchers in the rear of their body are used for defense and to hold prey.  

Earwig feeding leaves ragged leaves with a random feeding pattern.  They are nocturnal so if you suspect earwigs go outside at night with a flashlight and observe your plants.  You may also find their grass (poop) left behind on stems and leaves.  It is small black dots.  The frass actually emits pheromones which attract other earwigs to the feeding frenzy.  Scary! This is why they often are seen in large numbers.

That's enough information of earwigs to give you nightmares. Let talk about managing them.  One of the most effective methods is trapping.

Trapping:

1.  Trapping gives best results if you are diligent and stick with it.  For fruit trees corrugated cardboard can be wrapped around trunk or rolled up and laid on the ground.  They seek shelter in the cardboard.  You remove the cardboard early in the morning and throw it away or if you are brave dump the hickhickers in soapy water.   Cardboard roll into small logs and placed perpendicular to branch.  or roll up newspaper dampen slightly can be secured in upper branches of your fruit trees if they are eating your fruit.  The important point is you have to remove and dispose of the earwigs in the morning otherwise you are just providing shelter for them. 

2.  Another successful trap uses oil with soy sauce, bacon grease, or tuna oil.  Place the bated trap in a shallow dish or pan at dusk within and throughout your plants. It may be more effective to bury the dish  and have it level with the top of the soil.  Continue trapping until numbers of earwigs in the trap are small.   A possible down side of oil traps is they may attract raccoons or feral cats. Ants and sow bugs are also attracted to oil traps.

3.  You can also purchase earwig traps if you don't want the DIY approach.  Remember consistency is key to ridding yourself of these pests.

Exclusion

Duct tape and tangle foot.  Duct tape can be wrapped around a trunk and sprayed or painted with Tangle Foot.  This traps numerous insect including earwigs.  Be sure to change frequently.

Insecticides

• Spinosad which is a metabolite from naturally occurring bacteria in soil may be effective on nymphs

• Sluggo Plus 

• Pyrethrin is also an option

I fortunately don't have theses so pictures and info from USU Extension

Dehydrating Cherries

Dried cherries are a healthy delicious snack you can take on the go, use in salads, and baked goods.  If you have your own cherry trees when you get a harvest there are loads of cherries to process and share.  Dehydrating is a quick easy option to preserve cherries for later in the season.  You can use either sour or sweet but if you want them for snacking sweet are definitely better.  Be sure to use tree ripe cherries for the best results.

Stem and Pit the Cherries 

Wash  the cherries and drain in a colander.  I stem any that need it as I put them in the cherry pitter.

It's worth the investment to get a good, fast cherry pitter for large jobs.  I like the Leifheit pitter.  It's quick and efficient. 

I use the screens on the trays. I try to use small cherries for drying so I don't have to cut them in half.  

Leifheit Cherry Pitter

 Arrange Cherries on the Trays

It a good idea to have a space around the cherries for air to circulate. In other words don't over pack the trays or your drying time will be too long and drying will be inefficient.

I also don't like to do too many trays at once to ensure even drying.

Drying the Cherries

Set the dehydrator to 160 F for 2-3 hours then lower the temperature to 135F/57C for 10 to 20 hours. Drying time will depend on the size of the cherries.  

When done cherries should be dry to the touch.  They will still be leathery and somewhat pliable.

To test for doneness, turn the dehydrator off and allow the cherries to rest for 20 minutes.  Break one in half.  There should be no moisture along the break.

Storing Dehydrated Cherries

Light and oxygen will harden an darken your cherries.  I like one of three  options to store them.  

• First put in canning jars, fill completely full and add an oxygen absorber and store in cool dry place. 
• Second vacuum seal in bags and store in a dark place.  
• Third put in mylar bags with oxygen absorber 

Nesco Dehydrator and Jerky Maker

Nesco Dehydrator screens

Sweet Cherry Jelly

 

Summertime means cherry time.  A mature cherry tree produces an abundance of cherries. I love fresh cherries off the tree. A good harvest means there are plenty to eat fresh and there are lots of options to preserve cherries.  Some of my favorite cherry pie filling, cherry syrup, sweet cherry jam, dehydrated cherries and freeze dried cherries.  Cherry fruit leather is also a delicious option.  One of the easiest ways to preserve cherries is to make cherry jelly.  No pitting needed!

Jellies

Jellies are firm enough to hold their shape when you spoon them from the jar but soft enough to to spread easily.

Juice for Jelly

Wash cherries and remove any damaged cherries. Use fresh cherries. The recipe below calls for 4 cups of cherry juice.  Around 12 cups of whole cherries will give you approximately 4 cups of juice. If you are a little shy add a half cup of water to the pulp to extract more juice or add unsweetened apple of grape juice.

Put cherries is a large stock pot and add water to cover the bottom around 1 cup.  Bring to a boil.  I like to partially cover with a lid.  Occasionally mash with a potato masher.  Cook until cherries a soft and fall apart and are pulpy.  

Pour into a dampened jelly bag or  strainer lined with cheese cloth.  Set over a deep bowl.  I use a pyrex 8 cup measuring bow.  Press and stir with a spoon to remove all the juice.  With most fruits you would leave the juice undisturbed to drip from the bag for around 2 hours to prevent solids from going into the juice.  Some juices will be clearer if you let the juice set overnight.  The solids will settle to the bottle leaving the clear juice at the top.  Doing this means you need more juice.  Cherry juice will darken so I like to extract quickly,  You can freeze the juice to make the jelly later.

Jellies with Liquid Pectin

Jellies made with liquid pectin take the least amount of cooking time.  The pectin is dissolved and bonds quickly with the juice and sugar mixture.  It produces a clear, beautiful, translucent jelly.

With liquid pectin the juice, sugar, and lemon juice are brought to a full rolling boil you cannot stir down BEFORE adding the liquid pectin.  The entire contents of the pectin pouch is stirred in and then the mixture is brought to a boil for 1 minute.

Be sure to check the expiration of the pectin. Do not substitute powdered for liquid the process for cooking method is different. 

Sweet Cherry Jelly Recipe

4 cups sweet cherry juice

4 Tbsp lemon juice

7 cups sugar

1 3oz pouch of liquid pectin 

1. Prepare lids and canner.
2. Add juice, sugar, and lemon juice.  Bring to a full rolling boil you cannot stir down.  
3. Add liquid pectin. Boil hard stirring constantly for 1 minute.
4. Remove from heat and skim foam off.  The foam traps air so it is important to skim off.  
5. Pour hot jelly into jars leaving 1/4 inch headspace.
6. Wipe the rim, center lids, and screw band on.  Don't over tighten.
7. Place jars in water bath canner.  Bring to boil and begin timing for 10 minutes.  You do need to add time to adjust for altitude.  See chart below.  In my area I add 10 minutes.

                                     1001-3000  add 5 minutes

3001-6000 add 10 minutes

6001-8000 add 15 minutes

8001-10,000 20 minutes

Remove lid and leave jars in canner for 5-10 minutes then remove jars and let sit undisturbed.  Test that all lids sealed. Label and remove rings to store.

Makes 7-8 half pint jars.  Half pints should be used because the processing time ensures contents are heated to the right temperature with a larger jar that the center of the jar may not get hot enough.

Cherry Pie Filling & Topping

Chicken Eggs Vs. Duck Eggs

 

While everyone is familiar with chicken eggs here's what you should know about duck eggs.  My preference in most cases in duck eggs.  Here's some reasons why:

• Duck eggs are larger than chicken eggs
• The whites in chickens are runnier than duck eggs because they have hight water content.
• Duck eggs have larger yolks than chicken eggs
• Duck eggs have a higher yolk to white ratio
• Duck eggs are excellent for baking
• Duck eggs have thicker shells and are richer than chicken eggs
• Certain breeds of duck are good year round layers and with much less light necessity.  Mine lay through the winter. Take a short spring break and start laying again.
• Duck eggs contain 30% more protein than chicken eggs
• Duck eggs contain a different protein which means if you are allergic to chicken eggs you can try duck or if bothered by duck eggs you can try chicken eggs.
• Because of their insanely thick shells, duck eggs stay fresh longer.
• Duck eggs are higher in Omega 3, Vitamin A and D, fatty acids, choline, folate, and iron than chicken eggs.
• Chickens will lay well for 2 - 3 years then start to slow down while ducks continue to produce for 4-5 years.
• Chicken eggs do come in a lot more colors
• Ducks require more feed

(Backyard Chickens)

So there's the low down on duck vs chicken eggs.  Both are extremely healthy for you so which ever you prefer is a good choice.  Nothing beats fresh eggs!

What's my favorite?  Duck eggs for baking and scrambled eggs.  Chicken eggs for hard boiled and fried.  So there you have it... I have to have both ducks and chickens.

Ducks are extremely beautiful birds.  They are noisier and have to discuss everything. I do provide my ducks with water in the warm months.  I have Welch Harlequins and love them.  They can be sexed at birth by the color of their beaks.  Of all the breeds I've tried they lay the best.  They are excellent winter layers!

Splash Isbar

Controlling Squash Bugs

Pest Patrol:   Controlling Squash Bugs

 

 

The squash bug is one of the most difficult pests to control and the one I get the most questions about.  Infestations will make even the most committed organic gardener want to reach for chemicals.  However both organic and non-organic people seem unable to win the battle against this insect.  I've heard a lot of people say they are just not planting squash this year.  Sad to say this will not do the trick.  They will come back the next time you do plant so you need a more consistent effective plan.  The key to conquering is consistency.

 

You must know your enemy if you want to defeat it.  So a lesson on the life cycle of the squash bug is essential.  The adults overwinter in garden debris, under dirt clods and other protected areas. They lay bronze colored eggs on the underside of squash and pumpkin leaves. In our area we can have two maybe 3 generations.  

The key to conquering is recognizing the squash bug in the nymph stage.  It may be greenish, grey, or black and is much smaller than the adult.  It will molt 5 times before becoming the dreaded creature you recognize.  They are easily controlled as nymphs and very difficult to control as adults.  Most insecticides are not very effective on the adults.  Squash bugs have very few natural predators because of the odor they put off when squashed which making controlling them even more difficult.

So what is the plan of attack? Consistently monitor for eggs and adults. Crush eggs or cut off that section of the leaf or the entire leaf. Squash adults  or throw them in a bucket and feed to your ducks (they love them)  or throw them in a bucket of soapy water. 

 It's been helpful to me to follow a preventative spray program.  Every 2 weeks in a 1 gallon sprayer put  Neem oil, kaolin clay (optional) and two foliar fertilizers kelp and fish emulsion.  I spray this on squash, pumpkins, cucumber, and melons, everything in this family.  If I see any nymphs or adults I add Pyrethrin.  Be sure to use an organic form of pyrethrin.   Some pyrethrin formulas add additives or use a non-organic form of pyrethrin. Be sure to check the label.

The above mixture can be sprayed early morning or evening (to avoid pollinators) every 3 days when the bugs are present. I grow a lot of this insects favorite crops and refuse to lose the battle.  

The key is consistency.  You have to consistently do three things because you may have up to 3 generations:

• Look for eggs and remove them 
• Remove any adult squash bugs and monitor for nymphs
• Follow the preventative spray suggestions

 Only neem and kaolin clay should be sprayed as a preventative spray.    Pyrethrin should only be sprayed if you have the nymphs or an overwhelming number of adults.present.  

I hear a lot of, "I sprayed" but after learning about this pest you can see that one spray is not enough.  The key to getting rid of a pest is knowing its life cycle and when it is most vulnerable and attacking then.  Insecticides do not kill all insects at every stage.  The key is applying them when the pest is most vulnerable and when the insecticide is designed to kill.

So what's does each of these sprays do in your arsenal do?  

Neem will kill the eggs and nymphs. It is also a fungicide.  If powdery mildew is an issue this prevents it from colonizing on your leaves.  Neem must be ingested to cause damage so it doesn't harm beneficial insects.  It does not immediately kill the nymphs but interferes with their ability to molt so they eventually die.   

Kaolin clay is a deterrent not only to squash bugs but grasshoppers and other pests.  They prefer a plant without a sticky clay to munch and crawl around on.  Kaolin clay is optional.

Pyrethrin is a nerve toxin and does kill immediately but must make contact in order to do its job.  There is no point in spraying it if you have no pest to kill.

Caveli, my favorite favorite of zucchini

Other helpful hints.  Plant squash late.  When the adults emerge to lay eggs there is nothing to lay on.  Also clean all debris out of the garden at the end of summer.  Leaving plants in the garden over winter is a perfect squash bug condo to help them survive the winter.

Preventive Spray:  

Every two weeks use on all members of the cucurbite family

Spray in evening when temperatures cool down and pollinators aren't around.

Mix in one gallon sprayer with water

2 Tbsp Neem Oil

1 1/2 cups of Kaolin Clay (optional)

Kelp (fertilizer optionalP

Fish Emulsion (fertilizer optional)

Spray when nymphs or adults present:

Mix in one gallon sprayer with water

2 to 3 Tbsp of Neem Oil

1 1/2 cups of Kaolin Clay (optional)

Organic pyrethrin

The two foliar fertilizers are optional

Purchase organic sprays and fertilizers:

Neem

pyrethrin

Kaolin Clay

Liquid kelp

Fish Emulsion

One gallon sprayer

You can respray in 3 days if you still see nymphs with just the Neem and Pyrethrin;  you must also be willing to look for eggs and adults and remove them.

Healthy plants grown in a soil with plenty of organic matter.

Watermelons are also a favorite of squash bugs.

Growing and Harvesting Garlic

Soft neck garlic ready to harvest.  Two or three leaves have turned brown.



Nice and large.  Garlic has not split and will cure and store well



You can cook with your garlic fresh. It must be cured for storage



Curing on a screen on my porch.

Garlic is an easy crop to grow and in my book an essential ingredient in most dishes.  In addition to being delicious it is also extremely healthy for you. 

Harvesting Garlic

Your garlic is ready to harvest when two or three of the leaves have turned yellow or the tops have fallen over. In zone 5 that is in early to mid July.  I use my small trowel to loose the soil around the garlic and gently pull it up.  Just brush some of the dirt off the remainder will be easier to brush off after the garlic is cured.  Do not rinse. 

Curing Garlic

To cure your garlic put the bulbs on a screen and keep outside away from direct sunlight.  This could take 1 to 2 weeks.  They are done when the skins are dry and paper-like and the necks are tight.  Brush remainder of dirt off, cut the tops leaving an inch of stem, and store in a cool dry place.  Garlic can store from 5- 8 months. 

Choosing Garlic:

There are hard neck, soft neck and elephant garlics.  The soft neck is what you buy at the grocery store.  The hard neck has a stiff neck with single cloves around the neck.  The soft neck has many more randomly placed cloves and is the one used in braids.  Elephant garlic is very mild with massive cloves.  There are many different varieties of soft and hard neck. 



To start with it is best to purchase from a garden center or mail order because you are starting out with a disease free crop. Summer is the time to mail order because they sell out rather quickly.  Once you get a variety you are happy with you can save and plant the largest cloves. 

Planting:

Garlic needs to be planted in the fall one to two months before a freeze. I usually plant in October. You can mulch over if desired. Plant 3-4 inches deep if not mulching.  Make sure the pointy side is up.  In the spring it will start sending up green shoots the same time as daffodils.

Care:

Garlic likes a soil rich in organic matter and even moisture.  Hard neck garlic sends up a flower bud called a scape.  Cut those off with scissors so the energy of the plants is directed to bulb and clove formation. You can actually cook with scapes if you desire.