Tips on Growing Sweet Corn

Roasted and slathered in butter and herbs, nothing says summer more than sweet corn on the cob. Because corn is in the Gramineae family which includes grains and grasses, there are a few cultural practices to keep in mind when planting this crop.

 

Planting Sweet Corn: Corn needs full sun and good fertile soil.  It is a heavy feeder especially of nitrogen.  It has relatively shallow roots for a tall plant so it is sensitive to moisture fluctuations.  Since corn is wind pollinated it needs special consideration when spacing the plantings. Corn needs to be planted in blocks or 2 rows double planted to ensure good pollination and ear development.  It can be planted 2 weeks after the last frost of your area when soil temperatures reach 60 degrees.  A second and third planting can be made on Mother's Day and Memorial Day.  Always direct seed corn into the garden.



Jubilee sweet corn



Silver Queen sweet corn

Varieties of Sweet Corn

Hybrid sweet corn is planted most by the home gardener. Most people love the high sugar content of these corns. On the seed packet or in the seed catalogs sweet corns are one of 4 types SU standard sugary, SE sugary enhanced, synergistic and SH2 super sweet corn.  There are differences in these corns and choosing what will grow in your planting will result in success. 

SU Standard Sugary:  

• Has an average level of sugar (8% to 18%) that becomes starch quickly after harvest.
• Both hybrid and open-pollinated types are available.
• It is the traditional type of sweet corn.
• Some describe sugary corn as having “old-fashioned” flavor.
• Its kernels are tender and creamy. They can taste chewy as the sugar becomes starch.
• It is important that you pick these varieties the same day that you plan to eat them.
• Gardeners who want to freeze or can corn prefer this type, as the flavorful, creamy kernels hold up to processing.  
• Isolate from Shrunken (sh) and Synergistic (sy) types.

Varieties: 

My favorite is Silver Queen with its white kernels, two to three ears on 7 ft stalks. Jubilee is a yellow corn with 2 ears on 7 ft stalks. Both are good fresh eating and freezing varieties.  These two varieties have proven productive and reliable in my garden They need 80- 92 days to mature and you need to stagger the planting so they don't cross pollinate.

SE Sugary Enhanced:  

• Sugary enhanced has an increased sugar level (30% to 35%), and the kernels are tenderer.
• The sugar is slower to become starch after harvest.
• Fully Sugary Enhanced (se+) types are even sweeter. They will still be sweet after three or more days in the refrigerator.
• Isolate from Shrunken (sh).

Varieties:  Bodacious, Kandy Corn, Delectable, Sugar Buns

SH2 Super Sweet Corn or Shrunken:  

• Also known as "Supersweet."
• Shrunken have two to three times the amount of sugar (40% to 50%) compared to Sugary varieties.
• They have a crispy texture.
• They can keep their sweetness for a week in the refrigerator.
• Some people find shrunken corn lacking in “corn” flavor, and they are less creamy.
• Seeds are smaller and lighter in weight, and look shrunken when dry.
• Isolate from all other sweet corn types.
• Cross-pollination between Shrunken (sh) and any other types will result in starchy, tough kernels.

Varieties:  Super Sweet Jubilee, Honey n Pearl, How Sweet It Is

Synergistic:  

• They have a combination of sweetness genes.
• All have at least one (se) gene.
• They may be combinations with (sh) or (su), or both.
• These varieties are very sweet, crisp, tender and creamy.
• Some also have longer storage life, lasting more than a week in the refrigerator.
• Sugar content in synergistic types take longer to build up than in sugary enhanced types, and kernels can be watery if picked too early.

Varieties:  Honey Select

There are many more varieties available just be sure you are picking a sweet corn that suits your purpose and that you harvest it properly.

Field Corns are dominate so if you are near a huge commercial field you will have to plant, if possible, so your corn does not tassel at the same time as the field corn.

Other types of corn:

Don't limit yourself to just sweet corn.  There are open pollinated, dent, flint, and popcorns.  Sweet corn is eaten in the immature milky stage while other corns are allowed to mature on the stalk until dried and used as a grain to grind into corn meal, animal feed, or popped.

Open pollinated:  If you prefer the old fashioned flavor of corn without the sweetness this is a good choice. One choice that is easy to find is Golden Bantam

Flint Corn:  Flint corn is also known as Indian corn.  There are colorful ornamental cultivars and those that can be used as polenta or ground into cornmeal.  Some varieties I have tried are Bloody Butcher, Hopi Blue, and Polenta

Polenta corn a flint corn

Popcorn:  Technically popcorn is a flint corn that is the best option for popping.  So you are not disappointed movie popcorn is the snowball type and pops bigger than mushroom type popcorns.  There are lots of fun popcorns to try in a variety of colors.  They are actually becoming popular as a gourmet treat.

Dent Corn:  As dent corn dries, a dent is formed in the top of the kernel.  Dent corns are used as animal feed, for corn syrup, and used to make biodegradable plastics.  This probably isn't the choice for the home gardener but and option if you have livestock.

Squash is a good companion with corn.

The tassel which produces the pollen.

Pollination:

Before planting  you need to understand how corn is pollinated.  All corn varieties are wind pollinated and will cross pollinate.  Pollen is produced by the tassel of the corn which is the male part.  A good healthy corn will produce one or more ears along the stalk of the corn.  This is the female part and includes the ear and the emerging silks.  The pollen must go from the tassel to the silk.  This is accomplished with the help of the wind.  Each pollinated silk becomes a kernel on the ear of corn.

The silks of the ear.  Each individually pollinated silk
becomes a kernel on the cob.

Corn pollen is extremely light and can be carried long distances by the wind.  As I mentioned all corn will cross pollinate.  If your corn is tasseling at the same time as your neighbors or a commercial field then chances are there will be cross pollination.

Concerning your neighbor who is probably planting sweet corn. If cross pollination occurs eating quality is affected.  If SU, SE, SU2 are planted together and tassel at the same time they will cross pollinate..  SE and sh2 types are recessive to su types.  Field corn, Indian, and popcorn are dominant.  If planting more than one variety they must have different maturity dates and tasseling times.

Watering and Fertilizing

Sweet corn requires regular consistent watering.  Watering is critical during tasseling, silk development, and ear formation.  Water stress results in stunted growth and poor flavor.

Work a dry fertilizer and compost into the soil before planting. Corn is a heavy feeder. Side dress corn when it is a foot tall with bone meal.  Side dress again when the silks appear.  Also fertilize with fish emulsion at these times.  Mulch when plant are young to keep the wind from drying the soil out.

Corn Earworms

Spinosad and Neem are effective against Corn Earworms.  Female moths lay eggs on tips of corn silks.  The larvae feed off the silks and move on down eating kernels.  They emerge and then pupate in the soil.  You can have 1-4 generations of these lovely creatures. The critical time to spray is when the silks begin to dry.  Focus the spray on the tips of corn and around the base of the corn.

Aphids

Aphids can also be a problem.  An aphid infestation will result in lots of honey dew and can encourage the growth of black mold. The honeydew will attract wasps. While this rarely affects the quality of the corn because it is protected by a tight husk, it weakens the corn and is not pleasant to work around. 

Spinosad and Neem Oil are effective for both of these problems.

Ready to harvest with dry silks, tilted stock and plumb.

Harvesting

Harvest when the ears are plump, silks are dry, and ears tips out.  Enjoy! Sweet corn does not store well in the field.  It does not store long after it has been harvested.  The sugars turn to starch and that great sweet corn  flavor is lost. 

I remove the remaining stalk and some husks and keep it in the refrigerator but don't leave it there long.  Enjoy it fresh. 

To extend the season, I suggest planting two varieties and staggering the plantings so you can enjoy fresh corn longer.  The two varieties I like are Silver Queen and Jubilee.  Both are great for eating fresh and they both process well.  You can freeze corn on the cob or can it in a pressure canner.

Rhubarb Strawberry Cobbler

This is absolutely yummy!  My favorite rhubarb dessert to date!   It's a family favorite I found on Taste of Home.  The recipe comes from Susan Emery Everett.

1 1/3 cups sugar 
1/3 cup flour
4 cups 1/2 diced fresh or frozen rhubarb
2 cups halved strawberries
2 Tbs of butter

In a bowl, combine the sugar and flour.  Stir in the rhubarb and strawberries.  Transfer to a 11x7 baking dish and dot with butter.

Crust:

2 cups flour

1/2 tsp salt

2/3 cup vegetable oil

1/3 cup of warm water

1 Tbs of milk

1 Tbs of sugar

Combine the sugar and flour.  Add the oil and water.  Using a fork stir until the mixture forms a ball.  Roll out between two pieces of wax paper into a rectangle that will fit over the rhubarb mixture.

Discard the top piece of wax paper and invert the dough over the filling and peel off the remaining sheet of wax paper.

Brush the dough with milk and sprinkle with sugar

Bake at 425 for 40-50 minutes or until golden brown.  Delicious served warm with ice cream!

Rhubarb Cake

Rhubarb: The Pie Plant

Rhubarb Strawberry Jam

Rhubarb Crisp

Rhubarb Lemonade

Rhubarb Breakfast Cake

One of the first crops to harvest is rhubarb, a personal favorite!  I love the smell of fresh cut stalks.  Rhubarb is also known as the pie plant but dessert plant is much more accurate.  Below is a recipe for rhubarb cake.  I found this in Capper's Farmer magazine and the recipe was submitted by Karen K Will. I adjusted the recipe to include more rhubarb and topping.
Great take on a coffe cake and who wouldn’t want cake for breakfast!

Rhubarb Cake

Cake:
2 cups all -purpose flour
2 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1 tsp salt
1/3 cup of honey
1 egg
1 cup of sour cream
2- 3 cups of sliced rhubarb

Topping:
1/3 cup sugar/ or brown sugar
3/4 tsp cinnamon
3 Tbs melted butter

1.  Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Butter a 2 qt casserole dish.

2.  Whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt.

3.  Add honey, egg and sour cream and blend.  Stir in chopped rhubarb.  Set aside and make topping.

4.  Mix together sugar, cinnamon, and melted butter.

5.  Pour and spread batter in dish.  Top with sugar cinnamon mixture.

6.  Bake for about 40 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Enjoy as a breakfast cake plain or with whip cream.

To learn more about growing rhubarb check out this post.

Rhubarb: The Pie Plant

Rhubarb is a beautiful perennial  plant.  It does well with partial shade.  Rhizomes can be purchased from your favorite online nurseries.

More delicious rhubarb recipes:

Strawberry Rhubarb Jam

Rhubarb Crisp

Strawberry Rhubarb Jam

What a great combination:  strawberries and rhubarb!  This is definitely a family favorite. You can harvest rhubarb in early spring and then again in the fall.  Never harvest more than 1/3 of the plant.  Everbearing strawberries will still be producing berries in the fall so it a great time to get this delicious jam on your pantry shelves.

Crimson Red Rhubarb

Recipes for this jam are easy to find.  I use the one in the Ball Blue Book. This is a must have book for anyone serious about preserving food.  I recommend this book for everyone and suggest you actually read about the principles and equipment.  Sometimes we think we know it all when in fact half of what we know just isn't so.  So read the book. 

Our favorite thing to do with Strawberry Rhubarb Jam is to put it on a omelet. 

Ozark and Tristar Strawberries

Directions for Strawberry Rhubarb Jam

Strawberries for this can be fresh or frozen and thawed.  Drain any juice if using frozen. Put strawberries in pot and smash with a potato masher to crush them. Add rhubarb, pectin, and lemon juice.  Have your sugar  pre-measured in a bowl.  Bring the fruit to a boil.  Add sugar and return to a boil.  Boil 1 minute. Skim the foam off.  It helps to let it sit a few minutes then skim. Add to jars.  Wipe rims. and process in a water bath canner for 10 minutes.  I'm at 5000 ft so I always add 10 minutes to the processing time. Be sure to process for the appropriate time for you altitude  Check seals before storing.  Rings can be removed.

Strawberry Rhubarb Jam

Yields about 6 half pints.

2 cups crushed strawberries

2 cups chopped rhubarb

1 package powdered pectin

1/4 c lemon juice

5 1/2 c sugar

Growing Strawberries

The Pie Plant: Rhubarb

Controlling Weeds

Perhaps the biggest challenge with gardening is weed control.  There is no way to garden completely weed free, but there are methods and ways to control or manage weeds.

What is a weed?

Each area of the country seems to have specific weeds that are a constant struggle. Here in New Harmony, Utah white top and morning glory are some of our biggest challenges but there are many others.   

To help develop a strategy you must first understand your enemies. I have heard people say that a plant out of place is a weed so a tomato in a flower bed would be a weed.  

I disagree with that definition.  Weeds have specific characteristic that make them a consistent reoccurring problem in cultivation practices.  Weeds have short life cycles but in that time are prolific reproducers.  The can have more than one seed cycle and can propagate vegetatively as well.  Their abundant seeds can remain dormant in soils for years. All these factors make weeds a challenge for any type of gardening.

Annual Weeds

Annual weeds spread through your garden by seed.  The seeds can be brought into your garden from animals, birds, or even by sticking to your shoes and clothes.

Examples of annual weeds include crabgrass, lambs quarter, pigweed, spurge, purple dead nettle and bur buttercup.

There are cool season and warm season annual weeds.  Cool season weeds will make their appearance in early spring, disappear in warmer weather, but may return in the fall.

Warm season annual weeds will emerge and remain throughout the growing season.

Bur Buttercup which is toxic to livestock

Perrienial Weeds

These culprits are by far the hardest to eradicate.  They spread by seeds and through aggressive vegetative structures such as stolons and rhizomes.  Stolons and rhizomes are underground and have buds that produce new plants which is why tilling does not kill these weeds.

Examples include bindweed, white top, quack grass, and thistle.

There are two prime times to apply herbicides to perennial weeds.

  1.  The first critical time is spring before flowers open.  At this time root reserves are depleted so the plant is sending sugars from the leaves down to the roots.  The herbicides will move with the sugars down to the roots.  
2.  Another critical time is in the fall when the plant is moving sugars down to the roots for storage for the winter.  Perennials are least susceptible to herbicides after flowering and during seed development.

Redstem Filaree or Cransebill

Plan of Attack

Discouraged?  Don't be.  Let's talk strategies for managing weeds.  

1. Prevention

• Be sure vegetable, flower, and woody plants you bring into your garden are weed free
• Clean your tools.  If you use a shovel outside the garden area be sure to clean it before using it in your garden
• Use weed free mulch and compost.  Often homemade compost does not reach high enough temperatures to kill weed seed.  I would use bagged compost in garden beds and in greenhouse.  Save homemade compost for fruit trees and large field gardens.
• Mowing unmaintained areas to prevent weeds from going to seed will help.  In my large field garden we till every couple weeks a path around the garden and mow from that path on out. You can mow around the outside of greenhouses and your garden
• Keep garden paths weeded.  I have found this is easier if you put down a heavy duty weed cloth and cover it with a synthetic bark.  If that is not feasible use a hula hoe every week to weed the paths.  
• Disturbing the soil is as good as planting weed seed.  Do not disturb an area you are not going to use.  You can mow the area but do not till.
• Regularly monitor for weeds

Mullien

2. Mechanic Control

• Striking at the right time!  Weeding is import the first 6 weeks of spring to control early annuals and perennials.  The first 6 weeks of summer are also a vital time to weed to get emerging warm annuals.
• Hoe when dry: hand pull when wet.  Hoe when the soil is dry especially in paths the sun will then shrivel up the exposed roots.  If you hoe when its wet the weeds can and will reroot.  Hand pull weeds in garden beds and rows when the soil is wet so you can get all the roots.
• "One years seeding mean seven years weeding"  Do not allow weeds to flower and seed.  If you have neglected weeding attack those ready to flower and already flowering.
• Mulch, mulch, & mulch  after you weed an area cover it with at least 2" of mulch
• Lop off their heads.  Cutting off the flower heads of weeds you can't pull will buy you time.  This is also helpful with hard weeds like bindweed (morning glory).  Consistently pulling any bindweed prevents reseeding and forces the plant to use up food reserves in the roots.
• Flaming small emerging weeds is very effective.  In preparing a garden in open ground you can till or work in your compost, wait two or three weeks and flame any emerging weeds.  Be sure to plan ahead so you aren't late planting
• Weed whacking 
• Brush mower 

Dandelion

3.  Pre-Emergent Weed Controls

• Products containing corn gluten prevent germination of seeds
• I use a pre-emergent on my lawn to control dandelions.  Apply it in a broadcast spreader when the forsythia blooms because this is when seed will start to germinate
• Pre-emergents weed control does not kill existing weeds.

4.  Herbicides

• Herbicides are designed to kills plants.  They can be non-selective meaning they will kill all vegetation.  There are also selective herbicides.  These herbicides are divided into 2
  groups broad leaf  or grass selective.  Broadleaf herbicides kill broadleaf weeds while grasses are unharmed. Grass selective does the opposite.
• The growth stage of a plant will affect the performance of all herbicides.  Seedlings are more susceptible to herbicides than mature weeds that are not actively growing but instead focusing energy on seed production.   Most weeds are less susceptible to herbicides after flowering
• Organic Burn Out is non-selective and kills or damages all plants.  It contains clove and d-limenol oil. 
• I have also used Captain Jacks Dead Weed Brew on weeds outside garden areas 
• Herbicides in my experience need to be used while weeds are small and in some cases repeatedly
• Important note I always hand  weed in my gardens.
• We mow weeds in other areas (we have 5 acres)
• Herbicides are used selectively for example around a fire pit and along fence lines.

Here's a link to USU Landscape and Garden Weed Identification Guide:

Common Weeds of the Yard and Garden

White Top

Potatoes: Tasty Tubers

Potatoes are one of the most rewarding crops to grow. While the tops grow, flower, and then die back tasty tubers are forming underground.  Digging in the cool rich soil pulling out tasty potatoes grown organically is a thrill!  With skin colors from purple, blue,  red, and brown potatoes are anything but boring!  Some of the harvest will store well into the winter with very little preparation.  And some will be enjoyed on the day of harvest because nothing beats a fresh baked potato. 

Potatoes  are a family favorite with endless cooking options:  baked, boiled, roasted, shredded, steamed or fried.  They can serve as a taste side dish, in a salad, or even as the main event at a meal.

They are a great storage crop and can be processed in a pressure canner or dehydrated.  With so many options why not give the spectacular spud a try?

Purple Viking Potatoes

Are Potatoes Healthy?

Potatoes are actually nutritional gold mines.  They contain  vitamin C, potassium, iron and are a good source of fiber. They also contain B vitamins, vitamin A, minerals like zinc, iron, calcium and magnesium, and antioxidants. In fact, one medium potato with its skin can provide half of the recommended daily dose of vitamin C. In a survival situation, this would definitely be an important crop because it is calorie and nutrient dense characteristics.

Kennebec

Why Brother Growing Potatoes?

Why not just purchase potatoes from the store?  After all they are inexpensive, so why go to the effort to grow them?  There is a difference between fresh potatoes and store potatoes.  Texture and taste are so much better. Also there are so many varieties and colors and shapes of potatoes each suited to  a particular use and cooking method. Flavor ranges from nutty to sweet and from mild to intense.  Each variety has its own texture.  The texture determines what dishes each variety is best suited for.  Once you start growing your own spuds you will always find a space for them in the garden.

Besides the endless options of varieties,growing your own potatoes means you are getting an organic pesticide free potato.  Commercial potatoes are heavily sprayed with chemical fungicides and pesticides.

Purple Viking

Picking a Potato

Potatoes are planted from whole or partial seed tubers.  Use only certified seed quality tubers not grocery store potatoes.  This prevents the risk of certain diseases.

Potatoes can be characterized by maturity date, any where from 65-180 days, and skin type.  There are early, mid season, and late varieties.  I like to plant at least one variety of the early, mid, and late season potatoes. This extends the potato season allowing us to enjoy these yummy spuds from late summer through fall.  Skin types include russets, smooth, and colored.  Some varieties exhibit some resistance to potato disease so that is another factor to look at.  Each variety allows a different yield from light to heavy yields. Storage length is also another consideration with the late season varieties being the best for storing.

Weeding and prepping the field

 Planting Potatoes

Start with egg sized potatoes.  Larger potatoes can be cut and left out overnight to cure at room temperature.  Potatoes can be planted 4-6 weeks before the last frost date as long as the soil can be worked.  They like a sandy soil with lots of organic matter. 

 I start with a trench 1-1 1/2  feet deep. Leave the removed soil on the side of the trench. Before planting, I add dry organic fertilizer.  I  plant the seed potatoes 8 inches apart.  Cover the potatoes with only 2 inches of dirt.  

When the potatoes emerge and have about 6 inches of top growth cover them with another 2-4 inches of soil.  Continue to do this until the plants are level with the surrounding ground.  Then mound up one more time around the potatoes so they are actually  growing on a hill.  This is important because potatoes form between the seed potato and the ground level.  Mounding ensures an abundant crop.

Care of Potatoes

Other than the dry organic fertilizer you put in the trench potatoes do not need any other fertilizer.  You can cover emerging potatoes with compost once while mounding them and again when you hill them. Straw can also be used to mulch potatoes just be sure it is seed free. 

Even moisture is important to prevent mishapen potatoes.

Pests

There are a few pest to watch for in your potato crop.  As with all your crops, a stroll through the potato plot looking for signs of insect damage will result in early detection and possibly save your crop.  

          
 Colorado Potato Beetle

This beetle reside in most states despite the name Colorado potato beetle.  Check the underside of leaves, looking for masses of orange eggs.  Destroy them!  The adult beetle is yellow with black stripes.  The larvae is dark red or orange with black spots.  Both adults and larvae feed on the potato foliage.  Pick them off or spray with Neem and Spinosad.

 
Flea Beetle

Flea beetles are small pesky black beetles.  They chew small holes in plant leaves damaging young plants.  Rotating your crops and maintaining high organic matter in the soil will help.

Diseases

Problems with disease vary from year to year.  The determining factor will be the weather. Moisture and temperature and the right host make disease pathogens active.  

There are some preventative measures you can take.  First of all it is very important to rotate where you plant potatoes.  Potatoes and tomatoes are in the same family so keep that in mind when planning your crop rotation. Second always use certified disease free potato seed.  And finally use a regular organic spray routine throughout the season.

I have found the following spray routine effective for both pests and disease:

• Neem Oil
• Spinosad
• Kaolin Clay

I put all three sprays in the same sprayer and apply every two weeks.  I also add kelp and fish emulsion.

 Scab

The fungus that cause common scab lives in the soil for many years.  It is inactive if the pH of the soil is below 5.4.  You can take a soil test to determine pH.  Look for scab resistant varieties.

Late Blight

Late blight was responsible for the Irish potato famine.  It is caused by the fungs Phytophthora infestans.  This disease loves cool, wet weather and spreads as the weather warms up.  Look for water soaked areas that turn brown and black as the leaf dies.  Both potatoes and leaves can be affected.  Be sure to plant certified seed and follow a regular spray routine.  If weather conditions are right add Serenade to the spry routine.

  Mosaic Virus

  MosaicVirus is spread by aphids.  It causes leaves to curl and they look two toned.  This virus occurs throughout the United States.  Kennebec and Katahdin, two of my favorite storage varieties, have some resistance to this virus.

Let everyone help look for potatoes!

Holding the lids open

Harvesting Potatoes

You can harvest new potatoes before the main harvest.  This robbing can be done 50-60 days after planting.  A good time to rob for new potatoes is right before flowering.  Just gently reach into the hill and remove the new potatoes. Be very gentle.

Potatoes for storage are dug after the plant flowers and the vines begin to die.  They must be dug before the ground freezes.  

To check for maturity dig up a plant and rub the skin.  The skins should not rub off. If they do and weather permits leave them in the ground a couple more weeks. Harvest in the morning on a dry day.  Dig your potato fork to the side of the plants and gently lift out the spuds.  Digging around will result in finding more potatoes.  It's like a treasure hunt.

Brush off the dirt but do not wash until you are ready to use them.  I cure them in a cool garage on a rack which allows circulation and continues to cure the skins. Curing allows skins to harden and cuts and bruises to heal.

Used to store potatoes in the house.

Storage rack to cure potatoes in my garage.

Storing Potatoes

Potatoes are stored best in cool, dark, and humid conditions.  The ideal temperature is 40 degrees with 80-90% humidity.  Lower humidity causes potatoes to shrivel and light causes them to sprout.  In the west it is difficult to maintain high humidity, but do the best you can to maintain good storage conditions.  Not all varieties store well so use them up first and save those varieties intended for long term storage for later.

Varieties I like:.

Early Season 

Purple Viking: early, purple skin, white flesh my favorite.  My all time favorite

Red Norland:  Red skin, white flesh resistant to scab
Moutain Rose:  Red skin and flesh

Mid Season: 

Katahdin:  Reliable, white flesh, good storage, a must in my garden
Kennebec:  Large, reliable, large yields, long storage, excellent

La Soda Red:  Dark red, white flesh, disease resistant, high yields


Late Season:

Carola:  yellow flesh, excellent quality, drought, scab, and blight resistant, high yields
All Blue:  Large blue skin and flesh, high yields

Be sure to place online potato orders early or you will not have very many choices available.  The sell fast.  

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