Friday, June 25, 2021

Controlling Weeds



Perhaps the biggest challenge with gardening is weed control.  There is no way to garden completely weed free, but there are methods and ways to control or manage weeds.


What is a weed?



Each area of the country seems to have specific weeds that are a constant struggle. Here in New Harmony, Utah white top and morning glory are some of our biggest challenges but there are many others.   

To help develop a strategy you must first understand your enemies. I have heard people say that a plant out of place is a weed so a tomato in a flower bed would be a weed.  

I disagree with that definition.  Weeds have specific characteristic that make them a consistent reoccurring problem in cultivation practices.  Weeds have short life cycles but in that time are prolific reproducers.  The can have more than one seed cycle and can propagate vegetatively as well.  Their abundant seeds can remain dormant in soils for years. All these factors make weeds a challenge for any type of gardening.




Annual Weeds


Annual weeds spread through your garden by seed.  The seeds can be brought into your garden from animals, birds, or even by sticking to your shoes and clothes.

Examples of annual weeds include crabgrass, lambs quarter, pigweed, spurge, purple dead nettle and bur buttercup.

There are cool season and warm season annual weeds.  Cool season weeds will make their appearance in early spring, disappear in warmer weather, but may return in the fall.

Warm season annual weeds will emerge and remain throughout the growing season.


Bur Buttercup which is toxic to livestock


Perrienial Weeds


These culprits are by far the hardest to eradicate.  They spread by seeds and through aggressive vegetative structures such as stolons and rhizomes.  Stolons and rhizomes are underground and have buds that produce new plants which is why tilling does not kill these weeds.

Examples include bindweed, white top, quack grass, and thistle.

There are two prime times to apply herbicides to perennial weeds.

  1.  The first critical time is spring before flowers open.  At this time root reserves are depleted so the plant is sending sugars from the leaves down to the roots.  The herbicides will move with the sugars down to the roots.  
2.  Another critical time is in the fall when the plant is moving sugars down to the roots for storage for the winter.  Perennials are least susceptible to herbicides after flowering and during seed development.


Redstem Filaree or Cransebill


Plan of Attack



Discouraged?  Don't be.  Let's talk strategies for managing weeds.  

1. Prevention

  • Be sure vegetable, flower, and woody plants you bring into your garden are weed free
  • Clean your tools.  If you use a shovel outside the garden area be sure to clean it before using it in your garden
  • Use weed free mulch and compost.  Often homemade compost does not reach high enough temperatures to kill weed seed.  I would use bagged compost in garden beds and in greenhouse.  Save homemade compost for fruit trees and large field gardens.
  • Mowing unmaintained areas to prevent weeds from going to seed will help.  In my large field garden we till every couple weeks a path around the garden and mow from that path on out. You can mow around the outside of greenhouses and your garden
  • Keep garden paths weeded.  I have found this is easier if you put down a heavy duty weed cloth and cover it with a synthetic bark.  If that is not feasible use a hula hoe every week to weed the paths.  
  • Disturbing the soil is as good as planting weed seed.  Do not disturb an area you are not going to use.  You can mow the area but do not till.
  • Regularly monitor for weeds


Mullien

2. Mechanic Control
  • Striking at the right time!  Weeding is import the first 6 weeks of spring to control early annuals and perennials.  The first 6 weeks of summer are also a vital time to weed to get emerging warm annuals.
  • Hoe when dry: hand pull when wet.  Hoe when the soil is dry especially in paths the sun will then shrivel up the exposed roots.  If you hoe when its wet the weeds can and will reroot.  Hand pull weeds in garden beds and rows when the soil is wet so you can get all the roots.
  • "One years seeding mean seven years weeding"  Do not allow weeds to flower and seed.  If you have neglected weeding attack those ready to flower and already flowering.
  • Mulch, mulch, & mulch  after you weed an area cover it with at least 2" of mulch
  • Lop off their heads.  Cutting off the flower heads of weeds you can't pull will buy you time.  This is also helpful with hard weeds like bindweed (morning glory).  Consistently pulling any bindweed prevents reseeding and forces the plant to use up food reserves in the roots.
  • Flaming small emerging weeds is very effective.  In preparing a garden in open ground you can till or work in your compost, wait two or three weeks and flame any emerging weeds.  Be sure to plan ahead so you aren't late planting
  • Weed whacking 
  • Brush mower 

Dandelion

3.  Pre-Emergent Weed Controls


  • Products containing corn gluten prevent germination of seeds
  • I use a pre-emergent on my lawn to control dandelions.  Apply it in a broadcast spreader when the forsythia blooms because this is when seed will start to germinate
  • Pre-emergents weed control does not kill existing weeds.

4.  Herbicides

  • Herbicides are designed to kills plants.  They can be non-selective meaning they will kill all vegetation.  There are also selective herbicides.  These herbicides are divided into 2
    groups broad leaf  or grass selective.  Broadleaf herbicides kill broadleaf weeds while grasses are unharmed. Grass selective does the opposite.
  • The growth stage of a plant will affect the performance of all herbicides.  Seedlings are more susceptible to herbicides than mature weeds that are not actively growing but instead focusing energy on seed production.   Most weeds are less susceptible to herbicides after flowering
  • Organic herbicides are non-selective and kill or damage all plants.  I use one that contains clove and d-limenol oil.  On my roads and fence lines I use an agricultural 30% strength vinegar. (Burn out herbicide certified for organic use)
  • Herbicides in my experience need to be used while weeds are small and in some cases repeatedly
Here's a link to USU Landscape and Garden Weed Identification Guide:


White Top




Sunday, June 20, 2021

Dahlias










Dahlia blooms are one of my favorite flowers.  They are so exquisite and beautiful.  They brighten up the garden throughout the season and come in so many diverse colors and petal varieties.  There are single petaled types and those with dense mounds of petals.Colors are vary from stunning to subtle and soft.
  
Taken from Rodale's Organic Gardening Encyclopedia p. 172

Dahlia sizes are as variable as petal variety.  There are dinner plate size flowers or small one to two inch diameter flowers. They can be used in containers, borders, or as a focus in a cottage garden flower beds.  They are also beautiful inter-planted in the vegetable garden among broccoli, cauliflower, and celery. They are my favorite cut flower to bring indoors singly or in a bouquet.

Grown from seed.

Dahlia's inter-planted among broccoli and cauliflower.


  Dahlia sizes are as variable as petal variety.  There are dinner plate size flowers or small one to two inch diameter flowers. They can be use in containers, borders, or as a focus in a cottage garden flower bed.  They are also beautiful inter-planted in the vegetable garden among broccoli, cauliflower, and celery.



Grown from a tuberous root Thomas Edison cultivar.
Growing Description:

Dahlias can grow from 1-6' tall depending on the variety.  They spread 1-3' wide and have thick stems with lush green foliage.  They are hardy in zones 8-10 but where the soil freezes the tubers must be lifted before the ground freezes or else the tubers will freeze.



Dahlias are grown from tuberous roots.  Tuberous roots are swollen fleshy roots.  They have a pointed bud on top and roots that sprout from the bottom.  

 
Optical Illusion a tu-toned dahlia
Lifting Dahlia Tubers:

They are hardy in zones 8-10 but where the soil freezes the tubers must be lifted before the ground freezes.  After frost blackens the plants, cut them back to a few inches above the ground and lift the clumps with the soil intact out of the ground.  Lay them on their side until the soil dries.  At this point they can be stored at 45-50 degrees with the soil still intact or remove the soil and place them in peat moss.  Be sure to label the cultivars.  Occasionally sprinkle with water so tuberous roots do not dry out.   You can divide the clumps in spring just be sure that each planting includes a pinkish "eye."  (Rodale's Organic Gardening Encyclopedia)
How To Grow:

You can purchase dahlia roots from various seed catalogs.  They come in plastic bags surrounded by peat moss.  They must be planted after all danger of frost is gone.




Prepare the soil first.  They need full sun and soil with abundant organic matter.  Put a handful of bone meal into the planting hole and along with compost.  Mix with existing soil.  Set the tuberous roots 3"-6" below the surface.  Do not cover completely with soil.  Gradually fill in the hole as they grow, similar to potatoes.  Drive a sturdy stake 6" from the tubers if you have tall cultivars before they begin to grow.  If you wait to put your stakes in after they have grown you may injury the tuberous roots.  



Mulch around plants.  Dahlias need frequent watering and enjoy frequent applications of fish emulsion fertilizer.



Encouraging Flowering & Large Flowers:

If you want to encourage branching and more flower production, then when the plants are 6-8" tall pinch out the center.  You can repeat this after another 6" of growth appears.  

To encourage large flowers you can pinch off the side buds so the energy is directed to the center bud.  Do this when the buds are small around the size of a pea.  Or leave all buds on and you will have smaller but more flowers.  

Vancouver a cactus cultivar.




Growing From Seed:

This year I grew some dahlias from seed and they are gorgeous.  I inter-planted them among broccoli and celery in the vegetable garden. 

Certain cultivars of dahlias flower and bloom well if grown from seed.  You can purchase seed for double dahlias which have 2-3" flowers.  Single dahlias are a smaller plant and look beautiful as borders and in containers.  The larger dahlias need to be grown from tuberous roots. Below are all dahlias grown from seed.







You can store the roots from those you grow from seed as well.  Start them indoors in late winter and then transplant out after a frost.  They will give you late summer and early fall blooms.


Dahlias in a old wash tub.









Thursday, June 3, 2021

Conifers in the Landscape

 


Conifers are a great options in the landscape. The add  structure, color, and interest year round.  The simplest definition of a conifer is a plant that bears cones instead of flowers; however, some cones can be difficult to recognize.  Junipers are conifers whose cones scales are tightly closed making them resemble berries. The ancient Ginkgo tree is a conifer and Yews are also in the same category. 



Conifers include pines, cedars, junipers, cypress, Douglas fir, firs, hemlock, redwoods, yews, and spruces. It is a diverse beautiful group of trees and shrubs that are fantastic in the landscape.



Needles of pines are sheathed in groups of 2, 3, or five. Well know cultivars are Austrian pine, Scotch pine, and Mugo pine.  They need full sun and are fast growing.  Deer will eat pines.



Spruces produce their needles singularly attached to the stem. The needles are not flat as in most conifers and are shed periodically.  The cones dangle from the branches and remain for several months.  This makes them a beautiful specimen in the garden.  Examples are Dwarf Alberta spruces, Blue Spruce, and Norway spruce. Deer seem to leaves spruces alone.



Firs have flat needles are attached in pairs by a cup shaped base, and cones that are held upright.  The needles are soft rather than stiff. Douglas fir is actually not a true fir. The prefer cool moist climates.

Cedars produce needles in bunches, with cones that are upright on the top of the branches.

Hemlock needles grow singularly and opposite each other on the branch. Their cones are held upright. They can be fussy to grow and want a sheltered spot in the garden.

Yews have flat needles. They produce a red cone that we call a berry on female plants. They grow well in shade but may be damaged by strong winds. They can be pruned and sheared into hedges.

Arborvitae foliage forms in flat branchlets with scale like mature foliage.  Arborvitae evergreens are shrubs or small trees, however some will reach 40 to 60 feet tall.  Many of the varieties are quite hardy, but some may be susceptible to injury by late frosts or winter desiccation. 



Conifers are easy to maintain and establish. Fertilizer is generally unnecessary even for mature, established evergreens. 

With deer a big problem in my area, I was forced to replace much of my landscape. Conifers were top on my list. There are so many options and many are deer resistant. The new growth in spring is soft and subtly colored. Cones only add to their intrigue. In winter they provide beauty and interest and shelter.




Here are some of my favorite conifer that are incorporated into my landscape: Red Cone Norway Spruce, Gold Tipped Oriental Spruce. Oregon Green Austrian Pine, Vanderwolf's Pyramid Limber Pine, and Fat Albert Blue Spruce.