Tuesday, March 21, 2023

Signs of Spring & How to Warm Your Soil

A beautiful apple blossom with large king bloom in the middle.  Oh how I am looking forward to spring.


Outside the north wind is blowing and I trudge through ice and snow bundled up as I go feed the goats, chickens, and ducks.  But the day before I was 70 miles south visiting family and it was a beautiful 70 degrees.  I meet fellow gardeners in the garden section of the local nursery with dirt already under their fingernails.  I admired the transplants of broccoli, cauliflower, lettuce and kale already in the store and sighed.  Spring has sprung there, but sadly not in New Harmony.



Peach trees in bloom.

Deciding when to plant is a perhaps one of the harder decisions especially to a new gardener or if you have moved to a new location.  

Determining when spring has sprung has more to do with observing natural events than a particular date on a calendar.  The official declaration of spring occurs with the vernal equinox which is around March 21 or 22nd.  This date has no bearing on the appearance of spring for the gardener.  In some areas of the north "spring" won't actually make its appearance until May or June and in the south is may already be too late to plant some crops.  


Pear blossoms

So what does the Spring equinox tell us?  On this day the suns rays fall straight down on the equator.  Around the globe the length of daylight and night are equal.  From then on the hours of daylight will increase.  For many that is reason enough to rejoice.  This day does influence the behavior of animals.  Increasing daylight triggers courtship, migration, and other behaviors.

So how do you determine when spring has arrived?  The temperature of the air is less important to plants than the temperature of the soil.  The only dependable thing about spring is that is is fickle.  It toys with your emotions appearing then quickly retreating.  In our part of the country they say, "If you don't like the weather wait 5 minutes and it will change."  To understand planting schedules it is more important to look at nature herself and the observe when certain indicators begin to "spring" forth.

Early spring bulbs



Some signs of spring:


  • Buds swell
  • Sap begins to flow
  • Appearance of certain insects
  • Appearance of certain birds
  • Spring bulbs emerging
  • Emergence of weeds
  • And the smell of the soil warming.


Emerging tulips are a welcome sign of spring.

Warming Soil

I want to focus the last one-  warming soil. Why is soil temperature important?

As the temperature of the air rises and sunlight increases it begins to warm the soil.  This warming of the soil awakens the living organisms in your soil.  Microorganisms like bacteria, fungi, and protozoa come alive and restart the process of decomposing organic matter. This process of decay is what will make your soil rich in nutrients and gives it the earthy smell that gardeners love.  Earth worms migrate up  when the soil is frost free eating their way through soil, aerating as they tunnel, and depositing castings which enrich the soil.  During winter months or drought the earthworm burrows deep in the soil, encases itself in slime, and "hibernates" until the soil warms and there is moisture.



What The Gardener Should Do

This is why I feel it is important to add organic matter in the form of compost and aged manures in the garden in the fall.  You want organic matter available for these organisms in early spring.  It is the food source of soil organisms and combined with the warming sun will awaken the soil food web essential to organic gardening.  I add additional compost again in transplant holes along with and organic dry fertilizer.



The minimum temperature that seeds of cool season crops can germinate is 40 degrees. Temperatures of 50 and up will ensure faster germination and steady growth.  Note these soil temperature are for cool season crops.  The summer crops need much warmer soil temperatures and not risk of frost or freezes.

It is possible to assist nature in warming your soil.

Build Your Soil

 A sandy loam soil with organic matter will warm more quickly than a heavy clay soil.  



Raised Beds

Soil in a raised bed warms more quickly than bare ground.

Plastic Mulches

Plastic mulches can be used to warm the soil.  For northern gardeners they can be used to warm the soil to get an earlier start on melons, tomatoes, and peppers.  Stretch the plastic mulch tightly across the bed and secure the edges.  I recommend using a plastic mulch specifically for gardening.  Black or clear plastic do NOT allow for the movement of air and water and are used more for solarizing the soil or killing weed seeds.  

Hoop Houses or Low Tunnels

This is what I use in early spring to get a head start.  Low tunnels increase air temperature during the day and retain heat at night.  An additional row cover can be placed over plants under the low tunnel.  They are inexpensive to build and easy to remove and relocate.


Early spring crops grown under a low tunnel.

You can see row covers in the background and a low tunnel.  Both allow you to plant earlier.


Cold Frames

Cold Frames are a bottomless box of glass or plastic placed over an existing bed.  They are more expensive and you must monitor the inside temperature more closely because they offer more protection from frost and heat up more readily than a row cover.

Hot Caps

Hot caps cover individual plants creating a mini greenhouse.  They are an options if you have only a few plants to protect which is rarely the case in my garden.







Word of Caution

For those of you that are like me and get spring fever in February whenever the sun shines and snow melts and seed packets arrive in the mail, be gentle with spring soils.

Seed packets will say to plant as soon as soil can be worked.  So what does that mean?

Because spring soil has a lot of moisture in it, the soil compacts easily.  Every time you step on your garden soil your weight squeezes out the air and when the moisture evaporates it drys into a hard clod.  Even hoeing or turning a wet soil can compact the soil particles together.  While weed seeds don't seem to mind hard compacted soil, garden seeds are more particular.

So when is it OK to "work the soil?"  Grab a handful of dirt from your garden beds, squeeze it, then open up your hand.  If the ball of soil crumbles on its own or crumbles when you poke it then go ahead and work compost and dry organic fertilizer into the soil.  If you have sticky mud ball then wait for the soil to dry out. 



When working the soil in open ground and if you cannot avoid walking on your soil, lay boards out on the garden soil to distribute your weight.  It is a better option to have specific paths to walk on and avoid walking in your planting areas at all.  






"When a spadeful of earth crumble, the plows may be started, but not while the spade comes out of the ground smeared."  John P. Morton & Co.  Western Farmers' Almanac 1884



Saturday, March 18, 2023

The Pie Plant: Rhubarb






Rhubarb is one of the first crops to enjoy in early spring.  It's one of my favorite.  There are so many delicious things to make with rhubarb.  This week will be rhubarb recipe week.  Each day I will post a delicious recipe to try with rhubarb.  From crisps to cobblers, jam, sauce, and pies you can't go wrong with this perennial. It's very easy to care for, has few diseases, and makes a great landscape plant.







Purchase rhizomes of rhubarb in early spring and plant in a fertile soil.  Make the planting hole bigger than what you need and mix in compost, peat moss, and a complete dry organic fertilizer or mix your own:  1 part blood meal, 2 parts bone meal and azomite or greensand.  The rhizomes are covered with 2 inches of soil.  Rhubarb is a heavy feeder so in early spring fertilize with fish emulsion when established.  In late spring side dress with a handful of dry organic fertilizer and spread a layer of compost in watering well.  Rhubarb can tolerate shade (I recommend planting in part shade in New Harmony) and needs even moisture.


(My favorite rhubarb recipe)


 Its one of the first plants to wake up in early spring.  During cool, spring weather stalks develop red color.  In summer growth slows, stalks turn green, and it sends up flower stalks which you remove.  In fall vegetation continues to grow, stalks turn red, and it will die back at 26F.  Do not eat the leaves they are poisonous.




 Divide crowns every 5 years or when stalks become thin.  Harvest 1/3 of petioles (stalks) the first year.  Up to ½ when established.  Twist outside stalks to harvest.  Harvest for 6-8 weeks in spring or fall but not both.  Enjoy this delicious perennial!

Red stalks of rhubarb.

Thursday, March 9, 2023

Preparing your Soil in Raised Beds

Moon and Stars heirloom watermelon.

Preparing your garden beds

Put your money and time into building your soil.  That is the best garden investment you can make.  It will result in greater yields and fewer problems with pests and disease. Organic gardening is based on plant and soil biology. That’s why it works.


A Living Soil


Soil texture deals with the size of particles:  silts, clays, or sand.  Loam is a balance of these particle with 40% sand, 40% silts, and 20% clay which allows for good drainage and air and pore space for roots. 


The other very important element of soil is organic matter.  Soil texture does not determine fertility. That's good news because unless you have predominantly clay soil you can build fertility and a healthy soil biology and structure with the addition of organic matter.

For the most you can use your native soil and amend it with organic matter.  I would NOT, however, use a soil that is predominantly clay.


If your existing soil is clay, do not use.  You will have nothing but problems.  Bulk compost and soil can be purchased or perhaps a neighbor has native soil you can use. Bulk compost can be too high in salts. Ask to see a soil test on the bulk compost you are purchasing.

Caroline raspberries best to grow raspberries in a raised bed.

Preparing a New Raised Bed


If you are starting a new garden bed, rototil the soil and remove rocks and weeds. Build your bed frame and place over the soil.  I do not recommend putting screens on your raised beds. If you have gophers, screens make it impossible to trap the gophers and water will be  funneled down their tunnels.



Fill with a  sandy loam soil and 2"-3" of compost.  Broadcast evenly a dry organic fertilizer.  Using a shovel and incorporate everything into the soil. Water to get the soil to settle.  Remember do not walk on your beds.  

Jubilee sweet corn great for eating fresh, freezing, and canning.

Preparing an Existing Garden Bed

To prepare an existing bed, add 2 inches of compost and a dry organic fertilizer.  You do not need to work this into the soil if you have an established bed.  If you are new to organic gardening, then you will have to work the compost into the soil. Use a shovel to do this. 


Muskmelon or cantaloupe

Compost:  Poster Child of Organic Gardening

Buying compost can be confusing.  I do not use compost with time released chemical fertilizers or a lot of amendments.  

Compost is decomposed animal and plant material. Aged manures can also be used as compost.   

My favorite compost is Nutri-mulch (turkey manure and bedding).  Any compost will do.  Avoid those with time released chemical fertilizers.  That will only ensure you continually kill beneficial microbes in your soil.

In organic gardening, you feed the microbes and the microbes provide the nutrients for the plants.  Plants expend a lot of energy attracting specific bacteria and fungi to their root zones.  They enter into a beneficial relationship, each providing the other with what it needs.  The presence of beneficial microbes prevents the buildup of pathogenic microbes.  Using chemical fertilizers, destroys this relationship, kills microbes, and does not build your soil structure.


Adding compost provides organic matter for microbes , retains moisture, hold nutrients in the soil, builds soil structure, and makes plants healthy and happy.  So invest in compost!  It gets the job done.



My favorite compost and mulch.





Dry Organic Fertilizer:


You can purchase a balanced organic fertilizer which means it has Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K). With organic fertilizers you do not need a different one for each plant variety. Just look for one that is for vegetables.  All organic fertilizers have some trace minerals because they are organic compounds.  For example blood meal will have iron, bone meal will have calcium etc.

I usually mix my own dry fertilizers.  You can use any meal or blood meal for nitrogen and bone meal for phosphorus.  I put greensand for potassium and trace mineral.  Azomite is another good product for minerals.  Azomite is a rock dust that is mined exclusively in Utah.  It is the result of a volcanic eruption into a seabed and contains the highest amount of minerals of the rock dusts. It will improve water retention in your soil also.

I put the dry organic fertilizer mix in a 5 gallon bucket and use it on the garden, berries, landscape and fruit trees. Everything also gets a layer or homemade or store bought compost.  I also add dry organic fertilizer to planting holes along with extra compost of heavy feeders. Remember organic fertilizers feed microbes not plants. The microbes then provide nutrients for the plants.

Birdhouse gourds a very aggressive vine fun to grow for kids.

Liquid Organic Fertilizers

Liquid fertilizers are also important especially in early spring when microbe activity is slow.  Liquid fertilizers are mixed with water in a water can and applied to soil around the plant or they can be put in a hand sprayer and used as a foliar spray on the leaves.   

Fish emulsion and liquid kelp are great options.  I feed seedlings when they have 4-6 leaves, again when buds form and flowers set,  and anytime a plant is stressed. 

Azomite can also be mixed with water.  Mix 2.5 tablespoons of azomite per gallon of water for lawns, gardens, trees and shrubs. Greensand is not water soluble and must be mixed incorporated into the soil.




Complete organic fertilizer.

Look what you can grow organically, healthy beautiful grand kids!
This picture is of my grandson "helping" his dad prepare a raspberry bed.  Having a chemical free yard means they can safely help, eat, and play in your yard and garden.

Wednesday, March 1, 2023

Favorite Tools: Seed Starting Trays


 

This is part of a series I plan on doing about garden equipment and tools.  Through the years I've learned that investing in good tools and equipment pays off.  So let's start with seed trays.

f you are a serious gardener and start most of your own transplants, then it worthwhile to invest in good seed starting trays.  While you can start seeds in anything that drains, I have found that on a large scale, good seed trays are worth the investment and produce healthier seedlings.



Seedling trays are my favorite. They were developed for large scale agricultural use yet I have only been able to find them from one source which is linked below. 

These trays are made of molded polystyrene and are quite lightweight, which is helpful when lugging the trays around the garden.     

They come in 4 sizes:  1" 200 cells, 1 1/2" 128 cells,  2" 72 cells, and 3" 32 cells.  I like the 2" or 3" trays because I don't want to have to repot before transplanting.



Automatic Root Pruning

The cells are pyramidal in shape and taper down to a 1⁄4-inch hole at the bottom.  Because of this,  the seedling roots are guided downward. When the taproot encounters the air outside the bottom hole, it is automatically root-pruned, prompting the development of feeder roots that grow downward. This makes for seedlings with a healthy root system.  With a square-bottom container, the shape forces the roots to circle around themselves which is a setback to the transplants. (Fine Gardening)

Easy Removal From the Trays

Seedlings are easy to remove from these trays.  I use a butter knife or sturdy plant label.  Always water the day before you plan on transplanting so your plants are turgid.

Roots Already Directed Downward

When transplanting seedlings you want the roots to grow downward.  If they root stay in the top couples inches they dry out and never develop a strong healthy root system. Transplants from my Speedling trays always seem to establish healthy  deep root systems.  

Easy Clean Up

They trays are very durable.  At the end of the season, I wash the trays with soapy water and use a toothbrush to remove stubborn dirt.  I let them dry in the sun and they are ready for the next season.

As I said they are a great investment if you do a lot of seed starting. 


 

Sources for Speedling Trays

Peaceful Valley Farm Supply
PO Box 2209
Grass Valley, CA 95945
888/784-1722
www.groworganic.com